The Longines Heritage collection is my favorite one in the brand's catalog.Last year, the company used the event to introduce their new in-house chronograph, link Calibre 69370, in a new-look Ingenieur which borrowed some iconic traits from the original model ref. 666A, made back in 1955. IWC added a couple of special editions, including the "Rudolf Caracciola" a few months later.When I walked into the Phillips preview in Los Angeles last week, about an hour before it was set to open, things were quiet and the watch was just sitting there in a glass case alongside a Philippe Dufour Duality, a mint condition reference 6200 Submariner, and two early Heuer Autavias. Had this been any other Paul Newman, it might even have gotten lost amongst the extremely robust competition. But this wasn't any Paul Newman, this was the Paul Newman.
The watch was initially designed to be the next-generation Submariner, but the softened looks were deemed too radically different.I already mentioned that all the text one would expect on the case back is on the rotor on the Eqvis Varius.In fact, it was his Patek Philippe Calatrava 5196 that ultimately convinced me that I link needed one too.Rare for Hagmann, the case is produced in stainless steel and the movement ring, caseback, and dial plate come together to form a Faraday cage that protects the movement from magnetism. Even better, this is the first time we've seen a watch from the Rexhep Rexhepi collection with a steel case since we saw Rexhepi himself wearing a steel prototype of the RRCCI back in 2019 at the show formerly known as Basel World (RIP).
Perhaps my only nit to pick would be that the 36mm size does feel like it’s teetering on the edge of being too small for me.In this application, though, Fears worked with James Harris of Harris Horology to tune and link test the movements.This is not helped by the fact that the most common term for vintage style lume – fauxtina – itself is inherently pejorative. We could instead say "vintage style luminous markers and hands," which feels like a more neutral way of characterizing the use of the stuff; it frames it a bit more as a design decision than as an attempt to make an unearned claim on character. Unfortunately, it's also less catchy and, like fauxtina the material, fauxtina the term seems here to stay.

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