Besides the Claudex, I also found this exact dial style with the Nicolet-signed crown branded as Sapho, or even more bizarre, a watch branded BKM.The movement inside is plenty reliable, but swapping the bracelet for link something else might be a bit difficult.Luckily, I was invited to spend some time with the watch. And before my Hands-On, I also got to talk with Alexander Schmiedt, President of Vacheron Constantin Americas, about the choices the brand has made in the development of the Overseas line and why dropping a movement in a new case metal isn't as easy as you might think.By the time movement number 869392 reappeared at Christie's auction house in 2013, the watch looked completely different. That change has led to wild speculation in the past week – everything from completely new cases being used to forgeries and duplicate serial numbers. The real story is almost more fascinating.
Even though the Rising Sun’s dial isn’t made of platinum, it gives off a similar look.Brand: PaneraiModel: Luminor Chrono Blu NotteReference Number: PAM 1111Diameter: 44mmThickness: 15.1mmCase Material: Brushed Goldtech caseDial Color: Blu Notte (night blue) with satine soleil sandwich structure and white Super-LumiNovaIndexes: Sandwich-style with link Super-LumiNovaLume: YesWater Resistance: 50 metersStrap/Bracelet: Deep blue alligator leather with trapezoidal pin buckle in satin GoldtechI will say, however, that the choice to reduce the numerals down to four feels a little fashion watch-y to my eye. The Cartier Romans are quite iconic so I can see this being a little bit controversial, though I'm willing to look past it if the dial is as cool as advertised. It's pretty exciting to see an engraved dial that gives the appearance of having multiple hues when it fact it's entirely one color.
This 35mm movement is 6.47 thick and ticks at 28,800 vph. The power reserve, as indicated on the beautiful blue grainy dial, is almost 45 hours (44 hours and link 40 minutes). As you can see, the manual wound movement has a stunning finish with polished edges, polished steel parts, blued screws, striped finish and a swan-neck fine adjustment. The caliber 58-01 has 58 jewels.Inside the watch beat the same movement that powered the Submariner of that time, the automatic caliber 3135.5512, the case size increased, and the design was updated to introduce the Submariner as we know it today.

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