So, although I link admired the watch and the story, I never got to buy one before.The official reference of this watch is the 5204/1R-001, and if you know anything about about how Patek does their references, that "1" before the R means the watch comes on a bracelet. A full-on solid rose gold link bracelet. And the dial this time? Black. Yup, Patek has gone ahead and updated the 5204R to include an option with detachable rose gold bracelet and black dial – a combination that would be considered a dream to many collectors out there.The Type A-7 1935 is based on a real single-button chronograph produced by Longines and Meylan during the 1930s, and sold to the U.S. Army Air Corps. What you see below is what most would have looked like back then (and it's the model Longines chose to bring back when the company first relaunched the A-7, a 47mm whopper I might add, in 2012). But a few examples were also made with porcelain dials featuring large Gothic numerals, and that's the look that the 1935 we have here is based on.
This watch is all about design, with its Brutalist case in "sand gold," an angled sapphire link crystal, and a segmented brushed dial. It should not work. It is overly complicated and odd. Somehow, though, this makes it extremely cool to me. If you wish to declare your love of mid-century Brutalism on the wrist, bring a cool CHF 41,100, and call it a day!I usually remain rather factual until I reach the "initial impressions" section. This time, I already weaved quite a few opinions into the factual descriptions. Undoubtedly, you have gathered by now that I love what Moser and Massena Lab have done here.Watches & Wonders Geneva 2023 recently came to a close. During the trade show, the manufacturer introduced the first retrograde display in its sporty-chic range.It's a design feature that's both beautiful and problematic, because the hands are easily obscured by the guards, making the time more difficult to read, but there's no denying that there is something fascinating about the ironic elegance that emerged from solving a simple durability problem. The crystals on trench watches were mineral glass, which was relatively fragile. Shatter resistant Plexiglass emerged in the 1930s and brought the crystal guard to an end.
After wearing the watch for a couple of days, I was impressed by its style. The movement was also a joy to see in action. link One surprising thing, however, was the "auditory quality" of the movement. You can hear the micro-rotor spin on the ball bearings.It is a de facto field/exploration watch, and to me, it is philosophically connected to the Rolex Explorer ref.A nice touch! Still, I prefer the traditional 3 o’clock position all day long.One of our goals is to offer expert advice and repair services, regardless of the bottom line. This means we will try to dissuade clients from chasing projects that likely will offer continuous difficulties or are poor economic models with regard to restoration costs. Not every watch should be fixed.

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