The contrast on the backs of link the cases is particularly strong, where the similarly blackened back forms a frame for the glass exhibition window and the meticulously finished movements.It houses caliber 4131, a high-performance automatic movement unveiled in 2023 that provides a substantial 3-day energy reserve when fully wound.Its Wear OS by Google software seamlessly interfaces with a smartphone, enabling the transmission of all data obtained after each session.The largest of this trio of islets indicates the hours, while the other two display the seconds and the days of the week.
Using the same technique as on the katana's handle, Kamiyama has manually engraved the inscription 燦 — the Japanese character for san, meaning "brilliant" link — on each case back.Another Friday, another list! This week, we enter the wonderful world of the El Primero movement.To astute readers – where else might you have seen this type of integrated crown? In some early versions of the Patek 1436, that's where (one of which resides in Jean-Claude Biver's collection that we covered here).Seen in this light, the 4:30 date window seems much less a poor design choice and much more an excellent design choice, born perhaps of necessity but which preserves legibility better than any other option, and which, moreover, keeps the dial design both balanced and dynamic. I'm a fan.
Another big change, which looks more traditional, is the red-tipped luminous arrow hand instead of a skeletonized design.If the production number above is real, it link will be 10 times harder to find a Valjoux 237-powered chronograph.This is the design that is still being used today, be it with screwed links and a different clasp etc.Colorful and durable ceramic bezels notwithstanding, what really makes the newest batch of steel Spring Drive GMTs worth a much closer look is their size. The watch you see here is 40.5mm in diameter and 14.7mm thick. One could argue it's actually on the thicker side for a watch of this diameter, and yet it presents a really wearable form factor when compared to some of the 44mm Spring Drive GMT options in the Grand Seiko Sport collection.

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