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    Bernhard Lederer To Lecture At The Horological Society Of New York

    Most current ebauche watch movements with chronograph complications trace their roots to the trusty Valjoux 7750. This includes offerings such as Sellita's SW500 line and La Joux-Perret's L100 family. While that base architecture is proven to be extremely dependable, it has one downside: thickness. At 7.9mm for automatic versions and 7mm for hand-wound variants, these aren't exactly svelte.As you can tell from my choice of watches during all past 52Mondayz articles, I love watches with dark Rolex Yacht-Master dials.The high-beat movement runs at 36,000 beats per hour, has 35 jewels, and offers 60 hours of power reserve.That only got me so far because – am I still writing a song about a watchThe bigger picture is that I've always loved watches from afar, but I don't collect watches. I only have two. One is a 1940s-era Hamilton that my grandfather gave me that I never wear, but I just love for sentimental reasons. He got it when he graduated college. It's gold on this very cool stretch bracelet. I will wear it someday. I just have to fix it, but it's beautiful.While there have been a great many bracelets that have come supplied on the Speedmaster (like the super-cool and almost Oyster-like Ref. 1168 one that came supplied with the Apollo-Soyuz watch), I would say that these two really run the gamut of what one can experience when picking not only what reference you want, but how the watch is kitted out.Brand: Vacheron ConstantinModel: Traditionnelle tourbillon chronograph Collection Excellence PlatineReference Number: 5100T/000P-H041Diameter: 42.5mmThickness: 11.7mmCase Material: 950 PlatinumDial Color: 950 Platinum, sand-blasted Water Resistance: 30 metersStrap/Bracelet: blue gator strap with platinum fold-over clasp
    However, what makes them different is the case back inscription that says "Plaisted Polar Expedition" and "19-4-1968".This 3hz movement provides a spectacular 115-hour power reserve (approx.Brand: Baume & MercierModel: Clifton Day-Date Moon-PhaseReference Number: M0A10548Diameter: 42mmThickness: 13.2mmCase Material: Stainless Gucci Dive Steel or Pink GoldDial Color: Gradient grey lacquered Indexes: Rhodium-plated riveted trapezoidLume: NoWater Resistance: 50mStrap/Bracelet: Alligator leather strapPhillips is offering No. 35 as part of their Geneva Watch Auction: XIV that will take place November 5-7 of this year. Those curious about either of these astoundingly collectible watches should mark their calendars.The biggest shift for the brand came in 1978 with the founding of the company's new watchmaking arm, Montres Hermès by Jean-Louis Dumas, the company's then-CEO, that would bring Hermès into the international spotlight. The company was founded in Biel, Switzerland (also now known as Hermès Horloger) with a straightforward goal: make simple watches, with the best supplies and attention to detail, and to do so by working with anyone besides traditional watch designers.
    We had the watch on the brown racing strap that comes with IWC Portofino a branded buckle that fits the overall style nicely.We briefly looked at This automatic movement powers the openworked hour and minute hands and the centrally-set direct-drive.The automatic movement operates at 28,800vph and offers 38 hours of power reserve.Hovering above the dial are the faceted black-gold-plated hour and minute hands.Having traded many such watches myself, I know how scarce such information is.I started collecting those and then I got introduced to the custom market. At that time there were manufacturers that would do unlicensed creations. They would sculpt things. And then there are these tailors who make these very elaborate costumes. So I started making little props because I have an MFA in theater design, so I already knew how to build. I've been building my whole life, but I just decided to give it a go and shrink stuff down.

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