Caliber: Omega Caliber 1869 (special black bridge version of the 1861)Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, 12-hour chronographPower Reserve: 48 hoursWinding: Hand-woundFrequency: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)Jewels: 18“It was precisely twelve o’clock; twelve by Big Ben; whose stroke was wafted over the northern Répliques de montres part of London; blent with that of other clocks, mixed in a thin ethereal way with the clouds and wisps of smoke and died up there among the seagulls – twelve o’clock struck as Clarissa Dalloway laid her green dress on her bed, and the Warren Smiths walked down Harley Street.”  – Mrs. Dalloway, Virginia WoolfWe have to start with the Lange 1815 Chronograph. I could make the argument that this is the best modern chronograph, full stop, but for today's heart-warming purposes, we'll stop merely at "one of the best modern pulsation chronographs." When Lange introduced the 1815 Chronograph in 2004, it featured a pulsation dial. For some reason – hey, we all make mistakes – Lange did away with the pulsation scale on the second generation of the 1815 Chronograph.Given that quite a few pieces that premiered at LVMH Watch Week have landed in the Hodinkee Shop, it seems fitting to round them all up and give you the skinny on what we've got, and what's coming soon. And while we're on the subject, I'll sprinkle in a few old-reliable favorites from each of the brands, too while I'm at it.
The White Side of the Moon retains the 44.25 mm ceramic case we’ve seen within the line before. The watch wears well for its size, however, as we’ve noted on several occasions, it sits quite high on the wrist at 16 mm thick. The case itself is not the issue, rather it’s the boxed sapphire crystal extruding from both the dial and movement side. Thankfully, the watch has plenty of redeeming qualities in the form of Omega’s own Co-Axial caliber, symmetrical design, and rock-solid build quality.Before we get to the 1980s and the specific star of our show, there is one more development to add into our history, which is the 1978 introduction of the 2120/2800 perpetual calendar movement. Now that you have a quick refresher on the history of the Royal Oak, it's important to understand that the original model was powered by the caliber 2120.There have been thinner watches and thinner movements – the thinnest quartz Delirium was just 0.95mm thick fausse rolex montres and is, I believe, the thinnest watch ever made, and in the 1920s Vacheron produced the caliber 10726, which was a pocket watch movement, just 0.90mm thick. Both the Delirium and the Vacheron caliber, however, were extremely fragile and not very practical (Vacheron only made three caliber 10726 movements and then gave it up).The Conquest comes in your choice of a black, silver, or blue dial on a bracelet with a list price of $1,250. It's 11.7mm thick and has a sapphire crystal with internal anti-reflective treatment, and a screw-down crown and caseback. In a Longines sense, this is the brand's OP. But get this, it's water-resistant to 300 meters.
My first good mechanical watch was, like for many of us, an Omega. It was given to me by my maternal grandfather, a man who I grew up more than admiring – he was my idol. He was a veteran, an entrepreneur, and to me, just the coolest guy in the world. And while he wore other watches in his younger nep missoni years, it was this Omega chronograph that I remember him wearing throughout my adolescence. Each time I would visit him, he would take the Omega off his wrist and let me wear it until I went home.Little touches like the graceful line created by the polished bevels on the lugs, and the way the bezel is actually set into the top of the case rather than just sitting on top of it, help tie things together as well; they're not grand gestures and so, perhaps a bit easy to miss but they do show that CFB put care and thought into how they moved from the basic engineering aspects of the movement, to producing the final result.Breitling's press release this morning announced that part of the proceeds from the Superocean Heritage '57 Limited Edition II will benefit frontline healthcare workers in some of the most affected countries. The company added that it will donate an additional CHF 1,000 for each of the first 100 Superocean Heritage '57 Limited Edition II watches sold via Breitling . In total, Breitling says that it will donate $500,000, which will be split equally among six organizations in affected countries.Back in 2021, Omega made a much-needed update to the Speedmaster 3861 resulting in a very elegant, tapered bracelet with a clasp fit for the classic watch. In its current state, the Seamaster bracelet just seems chunky, and needlessly heavy – not to mention the fact that it doesn't taper … at all. Let's fix that.

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