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    The Zenith El Primero One-Off In Platinum For Phillips

    Reference Number: Ref. 161977-5001Diameter: 40mmThickness: 10.30mmCase Material: Ethical 18K rose goldDial Color: Ethical 18K rose gold with white Grand Feu enamelIndexes: Black transferred Grand Feu enamel railway-track minutes scale and Arabic numeralsWater Resistance: 30 metersStrap/Bracelet: Hand-sewn matte brown alligator leather repliki Richard Mille rm 25 strap with cognac-colored alligator leather lining. Polished and satin-brushed pin buckle in ethical 18K rose goldIn December 2021, Patek announced the final 170-piece limited edition Tiffany & Co. blue 5711. Phillips auctioned one; we covered the auction, and then we covered the actual winner after that sale fell through. If, somehow, you didn't get your fill of 5711 opinions, check out those articles and the 600-plus comments within.BBaltic's dial does remind me a bit of an AP Royal Oak "Tuscan dial" perpetual calendar, so I'm hoping to see them experiment with their dials to form their own language there. Either way, the CHF 20,000-30,000 estimate on both is really interesting. As production watches, I could understand it. As unique pieces, I honestly don't know how high they could go, but I'm excited to find out.On-wrist, the Nodus Trailtrekker lives up to its proportions with a relatively lightweight experience that offers a specific, pseudo-tactical experience that contrasts the matte finish with a legible dial set with Nodus text, the Raven logo, and a see-it-from-space oversized orange-yellow GMT hand that reaches all the way to the edge of the dial with a distinctive shape hallmarked by its chopped tip.Just like last year's France Racing Blue edition, this version comes in a fully sandblasted 39mm grade-2 titanium case, with a beveled domed sapphire crystal as well as a sapphire caseback. With a lug-to-lug of 47.4mm and a thickness of 14.35mm, it's a large square case, but it's the same as any other Monaco. The watch has a water resistance of 100 meters, and comes on a green calfskin strap with racing perforations as well as a titanium deployant buckle.
    Owing to the fact that the dials have so often been the focus of so much creative effort, the Grande Seconde watches have tended to be on the larger side, with cases generally 43mm in diameter and 12.21mm thick. (There have also been some models available in 39mm cases as well). Jaquet Droz recently announced the launch of a new-to-the-collection 41mm size in a case which is a bit thinner than for the 43mm models – the new models are 12.10mm thick.OP, you need to cut loose and relax, says the Explorer, mulled wine in hand. "Yes, live a little ... dive into life," muses the Sub, still dripping wet – and also not wearing any shoes.They motion over to Milgauss – life of the party – passed out, beer in hand, sombrero over face.Each color is painted Réplicas Richard Mille rm 011 on using an ultra-fine paint brush that uses a single hair – and it's not just any hair. It doesn't come from a horse or a human; in fact, it's sourced from a squirrel. (I did ask if there was a squirrel menagerie on site at La Fabrique du Temps somewhere – unfortunately, I was given no further insight on where and how these squirrel hairs are acquired.) It takes approximately two weeks to complete each dial, from start to finish.Looking at this watch, and you see it off the bat. The crisp, textured gold dial looks fantastic next to the subsidiary seconds sundial. The golden effect is then accentuated and punctuated by perfectly proportioned Breguet-style Arabic numerals which elevate the entire design of the watch and make it unmistakably Patek.Vacheron gave me a chance to spend a little over a day with the watch late last year, so not only do I have a ton of photos, but I have a lot of thoughts. There are a few things that Vacheron fans have been asking for (a matte dial, Dual Time Overseas is probably my biggest other request), and not only was a steel 222 high on the list, but it's undoubtedly a home run for Vacheron.
    The Ochs und Junior Perpetual Calendar is priced at 20,240 CHF excluding VAT (approximately $20,786 at time of publishing) and is highly customizable like all other Ochs und Junior watches. Visit Ochs und Junior online for more information.It's no understatement to say that 1957 was a year Omega was feeling ambitious. Not only did it release Repliche Richard Mille a fantastic chronograph and one tough-but-good-looking diver, but it also released an anti-magnetic powerhouse to round out the trio. That's the watch we've got here.The second watch has a story of great generosity; it is a PAM 111 from my father-in-law. He worked and saved his whole life without purchasing much outside of necessity. When he retired, he bought this watch. When he found out that I had scored a job with HODINKEE, he did not hesitate and immediately decided to gift it to me. It also happens to be that Panerai was my favorite brand, even before this gift! This is far and away the most generous gift that I have ever received.Today, we have an update to the Polaris collection, a sport line born in the 1960s that incorporates a new take on a perpetual calendar caliber originally debuted back in 2013. It has been endowed with a new display for the Southern Hemisphere moonphase and a lengthier power reserve of 70 hours. There are two crowns, as you'd expect on a Polaris. The top crown rotates the inner bezel, and the bottom crown winds and sets the watch.I was recently looking over Nomos' recent releases with Myles Kusaba and Jeff Hilliard, two of the coolest dudes and sharpest dressers in the Hodinkee office, when we came across the Ludwig 33 Noir, a black-dialed iteration that was just announced last week. I was prepared to skip over it and focus on the new Club Sport 37, but Myles and Jeff were fixated on thOh, and I almost forgot the most compelling attribute of the Ludwig 33 – the model starts at just $1,380. The new Noir dOh, and I almost forgot the most compelling attribute of the Ludwig 33 – the model starts at just $1,380. The new Noir dial edition lands at $1,700, but previous examples like the silver-dial Duo edition, which are still available from retailers, are the most affordable Nomos you can find.Finally, let's consider some competition as no watch, even a popular one, lives in a vacuum. The FXD GMT is offered in a single spec with a price tag of $4,625. At that price, there is a lot of competition. I'd like to dig deeper into the state of the GMT in a future story, but for now, let's consider flyer GMTs at a loosely (very loosely) similar price point.

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    This is a Calendomatic which as its name would suggest is equipped with a date complication adding functionality. This particular example is relatively nice with a bright blue dial along with gold hands and indices but the main attraction is nowhere to be found when looking at the watch right side link up. Flip it over and you'll link see that the caseback has a small hallmark of both the Movado hand link logo and a curved line of text that reads "BANGKOK."



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